New Releases of the Vintage Classics
Blanc de Blanc 2013
In the rapidly changing landscape of the current champagne market, the old-established Grande Marques are starting to look less and less relevant, or at the very least, leaden-footed by comparison with the dynamic world of the growers'-own movement.
But within this tidal-rip there are some islands, notably Philipponnat and Pol Roger, that remain in-focus and constant, despite the flux around them.
Pol Roger is something of an anachronism being a well-established Grande Marque and yet still family run. On one hand, they suffer the indignity of familiarity, yet lack the marketing flex of a big corporate player. But on the other hand, they remain independent, with the ability to pursue the highest quality without reference to changes in fashion, or the smoke-and-mirror tricks of Champagne's marketeers.
Pol Roger's non-vintage 'White Foil' has long been a welcome sight on many a mediocre wine-list, being among the best of the Grande Marque NV's, but the greatest strength of this wonderful old house is in their vintage wines. At the pinnacle, they position the Cuvee Winston Churchill among the elite prestige cuvees, but the real meat on the bone has long been on the tier just below, where their pair of vintage wines, the Blanc de Blancs and the Rose, are positioned at an affordable price yet have the quality to match up to any other champagne you can put on the table.
These two wines are standard bearers for their styles and cannot be recommended highly enough. They will develop well in the bottle and deserve to be bought by the 6 or 12 in every vintage.