A Great Offer of Traditional and True White Burgundy
Thomas Morey is the current guardian of a fine domaine, shaped largely by his father Bernard, and grandfather Albert before him. (See below.)
This offer presents an outstanding opportunity to lay in some front-rank, 2019 1er cru white Burgundy from a well-established and high-ranking producer, at a price that many of us thought was gone forever.
We also still have access to a few of the 2018s at similar prices, see below.
Hedonistic Style at the Right Price
Anyone who can remember Bernard Morey's stunning range from the 1992 vintage knows the quality of the somewhat obscure 1er crus; Baudines, Embrazees and Vide Bourse. Morey does a brilliant job with these vineyards and they easily rank alongside his better known crus, Morgeot, Chenevottes and Macherelles, and for $75 a bottle, the Baudines and Embrazees are very highly recommended.
Thomas has kept up his father's style of deliciously textured wines with superb concentration of pure fruit, suffused by succulent, citrus acidity. They are delicious wines at each level of the ladder. If you are addicted to 'minerality' or picking out the charm from foggy, enigmatic and lees enhanced messes, these may not be the wines for you! But if you still respect old-school, Cote d'Or 1er Cru texture and power, these wines deliver wonderfully, without ever straying into the 'over-ripe.' They are hedonists white Burgundies for sure, but isn't that the best sort?
The Morey Family Tree
Thomas Morey belongs to the tenth generation of this Chassagne Montrachet family whose history dates back to the middle of the 17th century. For the past three centuries, generation has followed generation, acquiring by inheritance or purchasing plots of vine-growing or fallow land, and passing these on to their descendants.
MICHAEL GLASBY | 415 350 3127
Thomas grew up walking among his grandparents’ vineyards, and later worked for twelve years on his parents’ vineyards. When his father retired, he and his brother, Vincent, amiably split the land to form wineries under their own names. Thomas is one of Burgundy’s most fastidious and talented viticulturalists, a reputation that has led to him being employed by DRC to look after their vines in Le Montrachet vineyard.
COURTIER | 510 926 6565
2266 Central Street #3
Richmond, CA 94801
Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2019, $70
92 points Burghound - A markedly more floral-inflected nose freely reveals its aromas of pear and apple compote. There is excellent volume and punch to the seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the lingering and lightly stony finale. This more structured effort is also very good and worth considering.
Chassagne Montrachet Les Baudines 2019, $75
92 points Burghound - The imposing elevation is evident as this is noticeably cooler and airier with its aromas of citrus and mineral reduction inflected green apple. The sleek, intense and precise, indeed even chiseled, flavors terminate in a bone-dry, complex and moderately firm finale. This is less expansive than the Chenevottes but much finer so it's a qualitative choice between them.
Chassagne Montrachet Embrazees 2019, $75 ($155 in magnum)
Chassagne Montrachet Les Morgeot 2019, $75
93 points Burghound - A slightly riper but still cool and airy nose offers up its combination of various white orchard fruit that is liberally laced with citrus and pretty floral elements. As is typically the case, there is more volume if slightly less minerality to the finely detailed and nicely persistent finale. This is really lovely and a wine of finesse and punch.
92 points Burghound - Here too there is ample floral influence to the attractively cool and layered aromas of white peach, pear and apple that are also laced with plenty of citrus. There is more volume and power to the bigger-bodied flavors that retain reasonably good refinement on the clean and dry finale. This could use a bit more depth, but additional complexity should progressively develop.
Chassagne Montrachet Vide Bourse 2019, $115
93 points Burghound - As it often does, the nose flirts with the exotic on the aromas of citrus confit, white peach and passion fruit. There is outstanding volume and focused power to the larger-scaled flavors that brim with sappy dry extract on the sneaky long, balanced and very stylish finish. This too could use better depth, but the track record of the Morey Vide Bourse is excellent in this regard.
Puligny Montrachet La Truffiere 2019, $115
92 points Burghound - Here the nose is suffering from some post-bottling reduction though I would not expect it to last. Otherwise there is more volume and mid-palate density if somewhat less tension to the middle weight flavors that also exude a bracing minerality on the balanced, stylish and lingering finale.
Chassagne Montrachet Les Dents de Chien 2019, $115
93 points Burghound - An intensely floral-suffused nose has background nuances of lemon-lime, pear, apple and an almost imperceptible application of oak. The almost painfully intense flavors also brim with a borderline pungent minerality that carries over to the balanced, youthfully austere and impressively long finale. This is very classy.
Batard Montrachet 2019, $350 ($700 in magnum)
94 points Burghound - A super-fresh nose combines notes of various white fleshed fruit with those of acacia blossom, citrus rind and anise whiffs. The rich, full-bodied and caressing broad-shouldered flavors are blessed with an abundance of dry extract that confers a sappy texture to the powerful and balanced finale. This is an imposing but a refined Bâtard that should age gracefully for years.