Among the back and forth of generational change and the ebb and flow of fashion on the Cote d'Or over the last 30 years, the Albert Grivault name has remained reassuringly constant. The jewel in the domaine's crown is the imposing walled monopole, that occupies the heart of Meursault's finest site, the 'Clos des Perrieres.' It is among the most important and historic sites in all of Burgundy, Alexis Lichine went so far as to say 'the Clos des Perrieres stands up to the incomparable Montrachet.' If any site is to define what Meursault is all about, it is this clos.
Beyond the walls of the Clos, Domaine Grivault has additional holdings within the 1er cru, from which they produce another domaine 1er cru 'Perrieres' that could be termed 'generic' by comparison but is itself a fine example of this fantastic cru.
Their famous red is from Pommard to the north, a 1er cru from the confusingly named 'Clos Blanc.' It is also something of a cult wine among old-school Burgundy aficionados and pretty reasonably priced given its pedigree.
The only other wines made at the domaine come from the clos adjoining the winery, right at the center of the village of Meursault; the Clos du Murger, from which they make both a village Meursault and a declassified Bourgogne Blanc.
This is one of those unflinchingly french of French domaines that does what it does and quietly eschews mode or brashness. Blazers and pearls are the dress-code here and it is no surprise that they do not court journalists or critics, preferring to honor long-standing commercial relationships and age-old allocations.
Indeed, relatively little of their wine makes it to the US, so we are happy to get a shot at a case or two of each of the following wines. They are highly recommended to anyone who looks for classicly flinty and mineral-laden Meursault that is built to age. Despite the warmth of the 2018, and to a lesser degree 2019 vntages, the Clos du Murger will benefit from at least a couple more years in the bottle and the Perrieres and Clos des Perrieres both deserve a decade from harvest.