2021: Magnificent Kabinett
The 2021 Growing Season was wet to the point of dramatic and deadly flooding throughout Germany. As a result, ripening was slow and late, but a long, dry autumn allowed flavor accumulation, where rot and disease did not intervene. The best sites in the Mosel were able to produce delightful and deep ripe flavors late-on in the season at relatively light alcohol levels, favoring the trocken, feinherb and most particularly the kabinett designation.
Acid off the charts, balanced by ripe and intense flavors - the delayed ripening carried high acidity all the way through the season, never wavering, right up to harvest. A keen observer describes the vintage as 'great for the acid-heads; kabinetts are extraordinary!' Reviews of the top sites, from the top estates in the Mosel and Nahe, stress the density and power of the fruit, overlying immense structure.
The New Releases
Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2021 $179 - limit 6
Egon Muller's 2021 kabinett will be a definitive benchmark for this style of riesling for decades to come.
Scharzhof QBa 2021 $60 - limit 6
Scharzhofberger Spalese 2021 $250 - limit 2 (super-rare)
Scharzhofberger Auslese 2021 $745 - limit 1 (even rarer)
Le Gallais, Wiltinger Braune Kupp Kabinett $75 - limit 6
Le Gallais, Wiltinger Braune Kupp Auslese $240 - limit 2